With the change of any season comes the promise of going on a
Jeeping road trip - which means you'll be off-roading somewhere. A bit of prep and checking of your Jeep prior to leaving
home can mean the difference between a fun run on distant trails and a week of parts hunting and bank account emptying. Worst
case, you may simply need to tow/transport your rig back home from a distant location. Best case it was a simple thing easily
fixed. Either way, a little prep before you leave home can make a big difference.
With that in mind we offer you this comprehensive checklist of
some of the things you can do and check on your Jeep (or any 4x4) before a big trip like this to help make sure that you can
make it to the trail, drive the trail safely, and then drive your rig home instead of having to tow your rig home. Now we
can't guarantee that we covered everything, but we have certainly given it a shot. You should be able to check most of this
stuff in a weekend day in your driveway, correcting problems before you leave will always be easier and cheaper than correcting
them on the trail or on the road.
One other little thing. If you are like me (and every other 4x4
nut I know) there is always the temptation to make one more big modification before you go. Try to avoid doing this so you
don't find yourself working and rushing things at the last minute. Make sure all your projects are completed well before you
departure date, that you have had a chance to test them and break them in, and that you have put a few miles on them before
you go. Please feel free to print this list out (for your personal use only) and take it with you to the garage as you
check these items:
Check Tires & Wheels
· Tread Condition o Make sure that you have adequate
tread on your tire, particularly if you will be in muddy conditions. Remember that significant tread wear and damage can occur
on the trail, so if your tire's tread is worn a bit thin it will be better to be safe that sorry and replace that rubber before
you leave.
· Sidewall integrity o Make sure the sidewalls of
your tire are in good condition, look for cuts or chunks.
· Valve Stems o Your valve stems should be undamaged
and not cracked. All should have caps to prevent the internal mechanism from being damaged. Metal caps will help prevent the
stem from being crushed so you can not air up adequately after the trail.
· Inflation Pressure o All tires should be inflated
to the same pressure on and off the street. Uneven pressure can cause your steering to pull, poor braking and accelerate wear
in the differential.
· Beads o Make sure that the bead is well seated on
the rim and is not damaged. Inspect to make sure that no material is caught in the bead of the tire causing small leaks -
particularly when aired down. Check the bead when you air back up when leaving the trail as well.
· Spare tire o Your spare tire should be in perfect
condition and the same diameter as your primary tires (width can be different). Do not take a chance on a spare that is in
poor condition - it is the most often used spare part on the trail. It should be fully inflated and have all lug nuts.
· Check wheels for cracks or damage o Check your wheels
for damage or corrosion. Pay particular attention to the bead area, the valve stem and the hub area. Replace any damaged wheels.
Include your spares wheel in this check.
· Check all lug nuts & studs, carry a full set of spares o
Check all lug nuts and studs. Torque all of them to the recommended specification before leaving, at the trail head and when
airing back up after the trail. It is common for lug nuts to loosen on the trail and I can tell you from personal experience
that it is no fun watching one of your wheels and tires pass you at 65mph on the freeway as you drive home. Carry a full spare
set of lug nuts at all times.
· Check lug wrench o Make sure you have a lug wrench, that it is the right size for your
lug nuts, and that it is in good condition. It should be readily accessible but well secured. As a backup, make sure that
your tool kit has a socket wrench or other wrench that also fits your lug nuts.
Check Suspension
· All bolts torqued correctly? Check for corrosion / mangled
bolts o Torque all suspension bolts & nuts down to correct specifications, may of these should not be too tight
or they will bind, too lose or they will fall off. Nylock nuts or lock-tite is a good idea on critical fasteners.
· Bushing condition o Check all suspension bushings,
replace any that are in poor condition and lubricate any that need lubrication.
· Cracks or twisted components o While you are under
your vehicle, check all components for twisting or cracking. Pay particular attention to spring mounts, control arm mounts,
control arms, shackles, and track bar & sway bar mounts. Correct any damage before leaving.
· Clean and lube leaf springs o This may seem like
it's fanatical, but you will notice a big improvement in ride and performance. Disassemble leaf spring packs, carefully clean
them and smooth any roughness, lubricate them with a light film of very heavy grease and reassemble the leaf pack. If you
have leaf packs that ride at different heights (due to sag) you can mix and match leafs in opposing left/right packs (not
front and rear) to help even them out a bit.
· Shocks - bent, dented, leaking, interference o Check
your shocks, bushings and mounts. Look for dented or leaking shocks, also look for possible interference, especially at full
articulation.
Chassis
· All bolts tightened to correct specs o Check all
chassis and frame bolts and nuts and make sure they are undamaged and are tightened correctly.
· Cracks, rust, corrosion o Check the frame for cracks,
twists, rust & corrosion. Correct any damage before leaving.
· Body mounts & bushings o On body on frame vehicles,
check all body mounts and bushings. Replace any damaged or cracked ones and make sure they are all tightened correctly.
· Skid plate & mounts o Check the skid plate(s)
and all mounts (including transmission & transfer case mounts). Tighten any loose bolts. Correct any interference between
the skid plate and any component (such as a driveshaft). Reinforce any potential weak spots.
· Interference o Check all components for possible
interference, particularly during maximum articulation and/or at full steering lock. Sometimes, due to vehicle modifications
or "trail tweaking" new problems can develop that were not there previously, correct any possible problems.
· Lubricate all points o Lubricate all standard &
supplemental chassis lubrication points.
Brakes
· Check pads & shoes o Make sure that you have
adequate braking material, in good condition and without contamination (such as grease or oil). This is your life, don't take
chances on borderline OK, replace anything that is questionable.
· Check rotors & drums o Check brake drums and
rotors for damage, scoring and minimum thickness (usually stamped on the component). Again, correct any problems before you
leave.
· Check and/or replace fluid o Check brake fluid,
add as necessary and replace old or contaminated fluid completely. If you run your brakes hot, it is a good idea to do replace
the fluid anyway.
· Bleed brake lines o Bleed all brake lines. Check
bleed screws for leaks and general condition - clean and cap if possible.
· Check for interference or adequate line length during articulation
o Check your brake lines to may sure they are long enough and do not catch on anything when full articulated and at full
steering lock.
· Check lines for cracks, cuts, abrasions, etc. o
Check all brake lines for cuts, abrasions, cracks, poor fittings, leaks or any other possible damage. If you find a problem
- fix it!
· All fittings tight o Check all fittings, mounts
and bolts for tightness. Make sure you carry the right tools to service your brakes!
· Adjust E- brake o Adjust your emergency (parking)
brake so that it holds your vehicle securely but does not drag. Replace any damaged component in your E-brake system. Don't
have an emergency brake? - Get something (like a line lock) and install it!
· Brake lights o Check and make sure that your brake
lights function correctly - replace any burned out bulbs or damaged lenses. Since tail light damage is common on the trail,
it would not be a bad idea to carry a spare bulb and some tail light repair tape to avoid a fix-it ticket on the way home.
Axles & Differentials
· Check hubs and seals o Check for damage or leaks
- correct any problems.
· Open each differential, inspect gears and teeth conditions,
check for chunks of metal, change oil o A metallic powder in the bottom of the case is fairly normal, big chucks of
metal are not. Check the condition of the gear teeth on the ring and pinion and in the spider gears. If you have never seen
the inside of a differential before then by all means take a few minutes and see how it works - someday you may have to fix
something in the field. Change the gear oil, it is always a good idea to use a synthetic oil. If you have a limited slip differential
make sure that you use the correct oil or add a limited slip additive.
· With ARB air lockers check air lines, condition, fittings,
clearances o If you have ARB,s check all of your air lines and fittings and make sure that the air lines have adequate
length during full suspension travel and do not catch on any component. It is always a good idea to carry spare air line and
a repair fitting.
· Check vacuum lines and shift motors on central disconnecting
axles o If your 4x4 has a vacuum actuated front axle disconnect, check the vacuum lines and make sure the shift motor
is operating correctly and is not damaged.
· Eyeball axle housing for cracks, straightness, damage, rust
corrosion, etc
· Check vent lines
· Check pinion for play o For both the front and rear
axle check the input pinion for play which may indicated a worn bearing.
· Check front U joints - make sure you have a spare o
Check the U-joints in your front end knuckles (and the rest of your driveline). Lubricate them and make sure you carry at
least one spare of every U-joint on your 4x4. These are another commonly used spare item on the trail. Make sure you know
how to change them and that you have the tools to do it.
· Check front knuckles o On your front axle check the
steering knuckles, ball joints, steering arms, etc. Fix or replace any damage or worn components.
Driveshafts
· Check U-joints & lubricate all points make sure you
have spares o Check & lubricate all driveshaft U-joints. If there is any question at all replace it. Remember to
check the center section of any constant velocity (CV or double cardan) joints. Make sure you carry spares and the correct
tools to service U-Joints.
· Check splines & slip yokes - lubricate o Check
all slip yokes and splines. Lubricate splines. If you have a tailcone slip yoke check housing for cracks, carry something
to seal the tail cone if it gets damaged on the trail.
· Check for straightness, dents, and make sure all balance
weights are attached securely o Check all driveshafts for damage and straightness. Make sure your balance weights are
securely attached. An unbalanced or damaged driveshaft at speed can cause serious vibrations problems, destroy U-joint and
even cause significant damage. Any local shop can straighten or repair a damaged driveshaft and balance your driveshaft if
needed. If a weight (usually welded on) has been knocked off or if you have a history of replacing U-joints or a bad pinion
bearing it is a good idea to have your driveshaft serviced. Don't ignore the front driveshaft!
· Check U joint straps / u-bolts o Check all U-bolt
straps and/or bolts. Use nylock nuts or lock-tite on them and do not over tighten U-bolts - they can crush the U-joint bearing.
Always carry a spare set of all types of straps, U-bolts or other bolts used on your vehicle.
Transfer Case
· Check output pinion for play o Any side to side motion
is bad and usually indicates a bad pinion bearing. Check seals for leaks. Check U-joints & straps.
· Visually inspect case and shifter mechanism o Check
for any possible problems such as interference, wear or damaged connectors or e-clips.
· Make sure all caps/seals are in place
· Check for ease of shifting
· Change fluid & inspect fluids for chunks of metal o
Change the fluid, remember to replace it with the correct type of fluid - chain driven cases often use ATF. Some metallic
powder would be normal, but chunks of metal are not.
· Check indicator & speedometer connections
· Check vent lines
Transmission (manual)
· Visually inspect case and shifter
· Make sure all caps and seals are securely in place
· Check vent lines
· Check for ease of shifting & synchros
· Check clutch, linkage & pedal o On Jeeps or 4x4s
with hydraulic clutches check clutch fluid, fill as necessary and bleed clutch lines. Check clutch lines for damage or leaks.
· Change fluid and inspect fluids for chunks of metal o
Change the fluid, remember to replace it with the correct type of fluid. Some metallic powder would be normal, but chunks
of metal are not. Sometime synthetic fluids and/or additives can help troublesome shifters.
· Check reverse light connections o Check connections, make sure the reverse lights operate correctly. This is important
when you are running a trail in a group.
Transmission (auto)
· Visually inspect case and shifter
· Make sure all caps and seals are securely in place
· Change fluid and inspect fluids for chunks of metal &
"burned smell" o Change the fluid, remember to replace it with the correct type of fluid. Some metallic powder would
be normal, but shavings or chunks of metal are not.
· Change filter if necessary o Changing the fluid and
filter can often help troublesome transmissions. Even though many service manuals do not require it is a very good idea to
do it periodically on your 4x4.
· Adjust bands if necessary
· Check all electrical connections
· Check vent lines
Electrical / Lighting
· Inspect and replace battery if needed. Fully charge battery o
Your battery is a critical lifeline, it starts your rig, runs your winch, keeps the lights on and when your alternator fails
even runs the ignition for a while.
· Inspect and replace and damaged or corroded wiring. Clean
all cable connections (esp. at battery and ground straps)
· Check all lights for proper functioning, replace cracked
lenses or assemblies
· Check fuses and the fuse box and carry spare fuses of all
ratings. If your vehicle uses a fusible link anywhere - carry a spare
· Check headlight aim o Don't be one of those yahoos
who fail to properly aim their liftend vehicles headlights and blind oncoming traffic (another reason for anti-4x4 backlash
& legislation). Keep the light aimed properly and on the road where you can use it.
· Check alternator connections, output and voltage regulator.
Carry spares if needed
· Check CB radio wiring & antenna. Tune your radio and
antenna if needed
Cooling System
· Change radiator fluid o This should be done once
a year. Inspect the old fluid for signs of corrosion or rust. If your fluid is discolored and rusty, thoroughly flush your
system before adding any new fluid (and be prepared to replace your water pump in the not too distant future).
· Clean fins and check radiator for leaks, repair any problems
or bent fins
· Check condition of all hoses & clamps, carry spare or
patches o Replace any cracked or swollen hoses and any bad or corroded clamps.
· Check and replace thermostat if necessary
· Make sure your fan & fan clutch (or electrical fan)
are working and that your fan has a fan shroud
Steering
· Check all components for looseness, cracking, damage or
corrosion o This includes everything from the steering wheel down to the steering arms. Replace or repair any damaged
component. Pay particular care when inspecting the steering box and it's attachment to the frame. With over sized tires look
for cracks around the steering box mounts. Check steering drag link and tie rod for straightness and dents. Any dent is a
weakness that can pretzel the component when stressed on the trail so fix it ahead of time.
· Lubricate & torque all components o Check all
steering components bolts and nuts and make sure they are undamaged and are tightened correctly. Check adjustment sleeves
& threads, ball joints, etc. Make sure that any crown nuts have cotter pins installed and carry spare pins.
· Check power steering fluid, belts and hoses o Belts
and hoses should be undamaged, belts should be tight.
· Check pump and reservoir for leaks
· Check for "burnt" fluid. Replace or fill with power steering
fluid as necessary o Replace the fluid if you detect a "burnt" smell. It's always a good idea to carry spare power
steering fluid.
· Check for interference with all components - especially
during articulation or full steering lock
· Check alignment or get vehicle aligned
Engine
· Clean it
· Inspect all of it for leaks, cracks or damage
· Change oil and filter o Inspect used oil for large
metal particles or contaminants such as radiator fluid.
· Tune your engine & replace and filters or other components
· Check spark plugs, distributor & wires o It's
always a good idea to carry spare ignition components
· Check all vacuum & emission lines & hoses o
Check all lines and hoses. Correct any vacuum leaks.
· Tighten belts - carry spares
· Clean carb or injectors. Check all electrical & throttle
connections including TPS
· Check starter o Check for worn gears, poor engagement,
bad or corroded connections. Correct any problems. If you have an automatic transmission it is always a good idea to have
a spare starter on the trail.
Safety
· Check seat belts and mounting bolts for all passengers o
Pay particular attention to the condition of the body where the bolts mount (looking for rust, corrosion or weakness) and
frayed or worn seat belts. Clean and lubricate retractors and latch mechanisms.
· Inspect & tighten seat mounting bolts
· Replace windshield wipers and fluid
· Inspect tub / body for corrosion or rust in critical areas o Body mounts, firewall, seat mounts, roll cage mounts, floor board,
etc.
· Inspect roll cage or "sports" bars o Not just the
condition of the cage or bars, but the body where the mounts are and all welds.
· Clean the inside out o You don't want to truck your
trash halfway across the country, have it get in the way of your pedals, or flying around when you are on the trail, or hitting
you in the back of the head when you stop. You probably don't have room for all the stuff you need to take, much less any
extra trash in your vehicle. Clean the insides of any windows and your rear view mirrors.
· Check your first aid kit and replace any needed first aid
items
· Check all winch components, cables and hooks o Check
all electrical connections, your winch controller and your winch. Run all of your cable out and rewind it carefully and evenly
checking for frayed or damaged cable while doing so. Make sure your winch kit is complete with heavy leather gloves, tree
saver strap, chain, a good heavy clevis shackle or two and a good pulley rated for your winch.
· Check tow hooks, recovery points and their mounts o
All vehicles need good attachment points front and rear, adequately mounted and in good condition.
· Check tow strap condition o Check for cuts, frays or mildew - replace damaged strap before leaving. Make sure
you have a blanket or coat to throw over the strap or winch cable when using it.
Other
· Inspect, clean and lubricate high lift jack & mechanisms o Clean any dirt or rust, particularly on the locking pins, and lubricate
the mechanism. A good white lithium grease works well. Run the jack up and down and make sure it is working well and all parts
are moving freely. Carry a large solid base, such as a piece of 1" or 3/4" plywood (about 1 foot sq.) than can be bolted to
the base to stabilize the jack.
· Check all spare parts and tools o Carry all the spare
parts and tools that you think you might need on the trail. If several similar vehicles are on the same trip, they can team
up to carry common spares and tools and thus save space. Make sure all parts and tools are readily accessible in all situations.
It does no good to have them in a place you can't get to because of the position your vehicle is stuck in. Make sure that
you have highway flares as well - sometimes breakdown don't happen on the trail and don't happen on the road shoulder - don't
get killed trying to fix something with your rear hanging out into the fast lane. They work great at signaling search and
rescue too! If you belong to AAA or some other roadside rescue service - take your card with you. If you have a cell phone,
take it and make sure it stays charged.
· Check gas tanks and jerry cans. Make sure you have spouts
& siphon hose. Use new gas and gas preservative in cans o Make sure your spare cans are filled with fresh gas and
use gas preservative in them. You don't want to have problems with the gas when you really need it, use the highest grade
and quality of gas you can get in your jerry cans. Make sure your cans are in good conditions, seal well (you don't want gas
spilling out when you get off camber on the trail) and that you have spouts for the cans and a length of usable siphon hose.
· Make sure that everything can be secured properly in the
vehicle o On the trail anything that is not securely fastened down will go flying (including you!) - so fasten absolutely
everything down. To help you with the exercise just imagine what everything that you put in your rig would feel like hitting
you in the head, at high speed or when you are in a rollover. Make sure it is not only fastened down, but fastened down well.
· Maps o Find your way there and find your way back
home again. This is important because is strange terrain at night or without recognized landmarks it is very easy to stray
far off course. This is even true on the streets, if you don't know where you are or how to get where you are going then just
having street signs does not help much. I live in the Sierra foothills and if you did not know the area like the back of your
hand and took a wrong turn at night you could end up lost for hours and a hundred miles or more from where you wanted to be.
No businesses are open to ask directions and no gas stations are there to fill you up when you get close to empty. Play it
safe, carry or buy a map for whatever area that you are in. Not just topo maps, but street maps too.
· Emergency money o Again the voice of experience speaks.
Always carry spare money, cash, credit cards, ATM cards and whatever else you might need stashed both in your vehicle and
somewhere on your person.
· Spare keys o You will never feel more stupid until
you find yourself stuck on the trail because you dropped your keys down a cliff, into a crack or fissure in a mountain, in
a mud bog or down into a deep river and you can't get your vehicle going again. Only carry the keys you absolutely need with
you on the trail and always carry a spare set of keys securely in the vehicle. Your local AAA locksmith does not make it down
many trails and when he does I am sure there is a significant extra charge!
· Food & Water o Carry enough emergency supplies,
including food and water so if you find yourself stuck on the trail (or on a deserted highway) for a day or more you can get
by. If you are likely to be in cold or hot weather also make sure you have reasonable clothing and shelter to handle any emergency.
If you think you may have to walk it out, make sure you have a way (like a small backpack) to carry food, water and supplies
with you.
· Shoes Let's face it, your shoes are your ultimate
backup. When you are stuck, can't fix it and help is not on the way you may have to hoof it out. Make sure you have comfortable
shoes that are reasonable for hiking a good distance in the terrain and weather you may find yourself it. Sandals and flip-flops
don't qualify - a good Boot will do just fine in any condition |