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Maintance for jeep Liberty
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Keep that Jeep Lookin Hot!!

Changing Fuildes :

The 3000 Mile Oil Change: Oil changes are The Blood of your Liberty or any other Car , Stick To Changing your Oil every 3000 miles ..

Transmission fuild Changes . The Transmission fuild should be change 6ooo to 7000 Miles so if your on your second oil change time to get your Transmission oil changed too

you should Check your Brake Fuild , Antifreeze , Steering fuilds , when ever you do your Oil Changes , Put Its always wise to check Weekly . depend on weather conditions.

 

Spark Plugs:
REMOVAL

2.4L
If spark plug for #2 or #3 cylinder is being
removed, throttle body must be removed. Refer to
Throttle Body Removal.
(1) Remove air cleaner tube and housing.
(2) Twist secondary cable at cylinder head to break
loose at spark plug. Remove cable from plug.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed
air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Spark
Plug Conditions.

3.7L
Each individual spark plug is located under each
ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be
removed to gain access to each spark plug. Refer to
Ignition Coil Removal/Installation.
(1) Prior to removing ignition coil, spray compressed
air around coil base at cylinder head.
(2) Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed
air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(3) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also
check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as
necessary.
(4) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Spark
Plug Conditions.

CLEANING SPARK PLUGS
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After cleaning,
file the center electrode flat with a small point
file or jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean the spark plugs. Metallic deposits will
remain on the spark plug insulator and will cause
plug misfire.

INSTALLATION

2.4L
CAUTION: Spark plug tightening on the 2.4L is
torque critical. The plugs are equipped with tapered
seats. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. torque.
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes
can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifications.
(3) Install throttle body. Refer to Throttle Body
Installation.
(4) Install air cleaner tube and housing.

3.7L
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
Fig. 26 Preignition Damage
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE STARTING TO DISSOLVE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE DISSOLVED
Fig. 27 Spark Plug Overheating
1 - BLISTERED WHITE OR GRAY COLORED INSULATOR
KJ IGNITION CONTROL 8I - 15
SPARK PLUG (Continued)
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes
can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifications.
(3) Before installing coil(s), check condition of coil
o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in coil installation,
apply silicone to coil o-ring.
(4) Install ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.


IGNITION COIL

DESCRIPTION

2.4L
The coil assembly consists of 2 different coils
molded together. The assembly is mounted to the top
of the engine (Fig. 14).

3.7L
The 3.7L V-6 engine uses 6 dedicated, and individually
fired coil for each spark plug (Fig. 15). Each
coil is mounted directly into the cylinder head and
onto the top of each spark plug (Fig. 16).

REMOVAL

2.4L
(1) Disconnect electrical connector at rear of coil.
(2) Remove all secondary cables from coil.
(3) Remove 4 coil mounting bolts (Fig. 17).
(4) Remove coil from vehicle.

3.7L
An individual ignition coil is used for each spark
plug (Fig. 19). The coil fits into machined holes in the
cylinder head. A mounting stud/nut secures each coil
to the top of the intake manifold (Fig. 18). The bottom
of the coil is equipped with a rubber boot to seal
the spark plug to the coil. Inside each rubber boot is
a spring. The spring is used for a mechanical contact
between the coil and the top of the spark plug. These
rubber boots and springs are a permanent part of the
coil and are not serviced separately. An o-ring (Fig.
19) is used to seal the coil at the opening into the cylinder
head.
(1) Depending on which coil is being removed, the
throttle body air intake tube or intake box may need
to be removed to gain access to coil.
(2) Disconnect electrical connector from coil by
pushing downward on release lock on top of connector
and pull connector from coil.
(3) Clean area at base of coil with compressed air
before removal.
(4) Remove coil mounting nut from mounting stud
(Fig. 18).
(5) Carefully pull up coil from cylinder head opening
with a slight twisting action.
(6) Remove coil from vehicle.

INSTALLATION

2.4L
(1) Position coil to engine.
(2) Install 4 mounting bolts. Refer to torque specifications.
(3) Install secondary cables.
(4) Install electrical connector at rear of coil.
(5) Install air cleaner tube and housing.

3.7L
(1) Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or contaminants
from around top of spark plug.
(2) Check condition of coil o-ring and replace as
necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to
coil o-ring.
Fig. 17 IGNITION COIL - 2.4L
1 - IGNITION COIL
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
8I - 10 IGNITION CONTROL KJ
IGNITION COIL (Continued)
(3) Position ignition coil into cylinder head opening
and push onto spark plug. Do this while guiding coil
base over mounting stud.
(4) Install coil mounting stud nut. Refer to torque
specifications.
(5) Connect electrical connector to coil by snapping
into position.
(6) If necessary, install throttle body air tube or
box.

Click On front or rear to see a video on wipers Replacement
 
                   front wipers   or   rear wipers

Here are a few sites on Oil changes hope it helps !

Keeping your Jeep Paint Hot Looking ..

Like Most People I spend hours waxing my Car to me it,s a Enjoyment ,,But Waxing your car in todays world is a must . if your live close to any Ocean you know that Salt does it damage Fast ! I,m a meguairs WAx Buff Myself . but you can use the wax of your Choice . But try to stay away from Polishes they don,t seem to Protect as much as waxes ,,

Changing your Air Filter every 6000 miles is a good habit . The filter clog up and stop frsh air from flowing into your engine ,, There are Many brands out there but always use the one that is designed for your Liberty

 
Materials Needed:
3 quarts (2.1875) of 75W90 or if your tow 75W140 (Rear)
2 quarts (1.3125) of 75W140 (Front)
(**I bought 4 quarts of 80W90 for the front and rear.**)
1 Bottle of friction modifier (if you have a Trac-Lok)
1 Tube of RTV
1 can of WD40
Grease/Antiseize
1 Paper gasket (optional)
Drain Pan (at least 5 quarts)
1 can of Brake cleaner

Tools Needed:
Floor Jacks
Jack Stands
Ratchet
1/2" Socket (Rear Diff Cover Bolts)
15mm Socket (Skid Plate Bolts)
Empty 3/8" Ratchet w/no socket (Front Diff Fill Plug)
8mm Allen (Front Diff Drain Plug)
Hand-operated oil pump
Scraper
Hammer
Flathead screwdriver
A case of your favorite beverage

Rear axle: (about 60 minutes)
1) Set parking brake. Jack the rear end up. Place your jack stands in place.
2) Get your drain pan ready.
3) Remove rubber fill plug.
4) Unbolt the diff cover bolts (all 10 bolts)
5) Take your flathead and place it between diff cover and housing and hammer, repeat on the other side.
6) Remove cover and let the oil drain. Clean with brake cleaner.
7) Inspected for any damage.
8) Spray some brake cleaner on the back of the diff cover and wipe.
9) Using a scraper remove the old RTV lube on the housing and cover.
10) Apply a small bead of new RTV (no gaps) on the diff cover and let it cure for between 1/2-1 hour. An alternative is a paper gasket (got mine from Advance Auto Parts for $4 dollars a piece) or Lube Locker.
11) Apply some RTV on the base of each bolt
12) Begin to tighten the bolts in a star shaped pattern. Torque for the bolts are 30 ft/lbs.
13) Start to fill the diff with oil. (2.1875 quarts = 2 quarts + 6 ounces) Wish I bought an oil pump because the gas tank got in the way.
14) Remove jack stands and floor jacks.


Front axle: (about 45 minutes)
1) Set parking brake. Jack the rear end up. Place your jack stands in place.
2) Remove skid plate. There are four 15mm bolts on each corner.
3) Get your drain pan ready.
4) Take a 3/8" ratchet (without a socket) and remove the fill plug.
5) With your 8mm allen remove the drain plug. Let the diff completely drain out.
6) Replace the drain plug. Do not tighten this too much because this diff is make out of aluminum and will crack.
7) Start to fill the diff with oil. (1.3125 quarts = 1 quart + 10 ouncles)
8) Replace the fill plug. Again, do not tighten this too much because this diff is make out of aluminum and will crack.
9) Replace the skid plate. Put some grease or antiseize on the threads of the bolt.

Comments:

I recommend using an air impact because the bolts on the rear diff and skid plate are really rusted. If you don't have one, ask your neighbor or friend because it really makes this job easier. I used 80W90 oil all around didn't notice any difference. Also you should have a oil pump because their is not much space for the oil bottle. Make sure you have all the tools you need before you start. I went back and forth to the auto store too many times. As long as you have all the items on the materials and tools list you'll be okay.
_________________

Swapping out 02 to 04 Grills
Note: This article applies to 02-04 models only. , there were changes made to the '05 version - no screws in the '05s.

--------------

For anyone who wants to swap out their front grill for the more blingtastic chrome version. This procedure can also be used to add a temperature sensor when adding an overhead console (EVIC/OTIS).

While there's some debate about how long this should take to do, the estimates are somewhere between 3 and 30 minutes, with the 30 minute estimate allowing for the consumption of one or more beers in the middle :



GRILLE REMOVAL
(1) Remove the upper screws. (Fig. 4)
(2) Roll the grille forward and disengage the two grille hooks under the headlamp units.
(3) Lift the grille forward and up off of the location tabs at the bottom and remove.

GRILLE INSTALLATION
(1) Install the grille onto the locating tabs at the bottom.
(2) Push the grille back and snap into the hooks in the grille opening reinforcement.
(3) Check that the black welts at the outboard ends of the grille have a uniform appearance relative to the fender and install the screws.

Replace your head Ligths Bulbs Make sure you are using the right NUmber bulb (( you can even use thoses new Blue Color bulbs ))))
 
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
(2) Reach behind the headlamp unit from the engine compartment side of the upper radiator crossmember to access the headlamp bulb lock ring (Fig.23).

(3) Firmly grasp the lock ring on the back of the headlamp unit housing.
(4) Rotate the lock ring on the back of the headlamp unit housing counterclockwise about 30 degrees.
CAUTION: Do not contaminate the bulb glass by touching it with your fingers or by allowing it to contact other oily surfaces. Shortened bulb life will result.
(5) Pull the lock ring, socket, and bulb straight out of the headlamp unit housing and up from behind the upper radiator crossmember (Fig. 24).

(6) Disconnect the grille opening reinforcement wire harness connector for the headlamp bulb from the connector receptacle on the bulb socket.
(7) Remove the bulb and bulb socket from the lock ring as a unit.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always use the correct bulb size and type for replacement. An incorrect bulb size or type may overheat and cause damage to the lamp, the socket and/or the lamp wiring.
CAUTION: Do not contaminate the bulb glass by touching it with your fingers or by allowing it to contact other oily surfaces. Shortened bulb life will result.

(1) Position the headlamp bulb and socket unit into the lock ring (Fig. 24).
(2) Reconnect the grille opening reinforcement wire harness connector for the headlamp bulb to the connector receptacle on the bulb socket.
(3) Position the lock ring, socket, and bulb down behind the upper radiator crossmember and align them with the socket opening on the back of the headlamp unit housing.
(4) Push the socket and bulb straight into the headlamp unit housing until they are firmly seated.
(5) Position the lock ring over the socket and engage it with the flange on the back of the headlamp unit housing (Fig. 23).
(6) Rotate the lock ring on the back of the headlamp unit housing clockwise about 30 degrees.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.

I will be Placing More maintance Corses here as time goes on .. thanks for Looking

Awesome Car Polish !!
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Never Wax Again !